Days 6 & 7 - Glencolmcille to Ballintoy

Day 6 – Glencolmcille to Ballintoy


We awoke early in Glencolmcille the day after climbing to the top of Slieve League shrouded in a dramatic drizzle-mist. Despite this, we all decided to put on our swimsuits and brave the cold ocean waters to swim in the beautiful cove at Malin Beg.

Leon, our colourful and friendly hostel host at Glencolmcille was originally from South Africa. Another distinct accent. We all loved getting to know his 18-year old parrot (whose name escapes us right now) and chihuahua Minky. Apparently, the parrot could speak 400 different words – wow!

After a hearty breakfast of porridge, toast and fruit, we set out for our first stop in Derry (officially Londonderry). We had a quick picnic on the lawn of the tourist office and then set out to walk along the fortified walls of the historic city. We learned that the city received its Royal Charter in 1613 from King James I and funding from the London guilds, hence the name Londonderry. The name remains a source of some controversy. We wished to have more time here to understand more about the Troubles which affected Northern Ireland in the 1980s and 90s. Nevertheless, we could see how the fortifications essentially divided the city into traditionally Protestant and Catholic sectors.

While walking the walls, we overheard a passionate tour guide proudly explaining in her very distinctive Northern Irish accent how her own two children were enrolled in integrated schools with children of many backgrounds. In modern Ireland/Northern Ireland – as in Canada – recent waves of immigration have brought people from all over the world.
Posing on the storied walls of Derry


Panorama of Derry from the top of the city walls


Following our brief stop, we continued on to the town of Bushmills (home of the famous whiskey distiller) to pick up our groceries for the night. While returning to our parked cars on the main street, a vehicle clipped the side mirror of Andrew’s car. While our car was unharmed, the other man’s vehicle lost its side mirror. The man stopped, got out and was clearly unhappy. Coincidentally, André was closest to the man, who to our surprise first spoke French.

He said, « Cette voiture n’est pas bien garée. » (This car is not well parked.)
To which André replied without hesitation, « Cette voiture est très bien garée. » (This car is very well parked.)

We think the man was more shocked than we were, as he turned around, got into his car and that was the end of it. While we felt badly about his broken mirror, we could not help but break into gales of hilarious laughter!
We turned towards the lovely Northern Irish coast during the “golden hour” and got out to admire White Park Bay just before arriving at the lovely Sheep Island View Hostel in Ballintoy. Dinner – which was a full team effort – consisted of delicious spaghetti and Caesar salad. 

White Park Bay - one of many stunning views along the Antrim coast


Day 7 - Ballintoy, the Giant's Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Without a major drive to do, we had a leisurely morning. Some of us took the time to grab a bit more sleep and enjoy a hearty breakfast.
Mid-morning, we all met in the hostel’s living room area to discuss the shape and focus of the nighttime vigil – the most eagerly anticipated part of the pilgrimage. In preparation for the evening events, each pilgrim was asked to pick a particular reading from among a diverse set of passages from Christian and other faith traditions to guide their later meditations.

To get some fresh air and clear our heads, we went for a walk in Ballintoy, and came upon some locals playing soccer in the park. Naturally, we joined in!
Soccer with some locals at Ballintoy

Following lunch, we headed to the amazing Giant’s Causeway. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a 60 million-year-old geological formation consisting of over 40,000 pillars of basalt rock formed in a volcanic eruption. As the rock cooled, it contracted and fractured much like mud in a drying lake bed. The popular name has to do with the legend of the Irish mythological character Finn MacCool and his epic battle with his Scottish rival. We are told that Finn won the battle, but it does make us wonder what they say in Scotland where similar rock formations occur about 45 km across the water. Hmm…



Mary directing Cheryl to park on the "verge" near the Giant's Causeway (noting the signs not to park on the verge)

The "Six Pack" at the Giant's Causeway

The amazing geological formations of the Giant's Causeway


More amazing geology at the Giant's Causeway

Part of the legend of Finn and his causeway to Scotland

Posing on the pillars of basalt


As the sun settled into its glorious golden hour around 5:30 p.m., we also visited the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge only 1 km from the hostel. This rope suspension bridge links the mainland to a dramatic rocky island which once served as a salmon fishing post. Sadly, the salmon have disappeared from the area presumably due to overfishing. The technique described on the interpretive panels was fascinating: the fishermen would cast nets out around the island, then winch their boats down the cliff to go out and collect the catch. It sounded like tough work to then winch the fish-filled boats back up and then haul the catch back across the rope bridge.
Our glorious day at the Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede set the stage for the night vigil on the beach at Ballintoy. 


Crossing the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Should we have gone out this far? Perhaps not, but it makes a good pic in any case

The dramatic crossing to the rocks 

Comments

  1. These photos are amazing. Thanks for sharing.

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  2. Love these pictures! the "six pack" on the cliff pics are really fun. Would love to cross that rope bridge too! Lillian

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  3. It looks as though it has been an amazing trip so far! I hope that your trip has really given you all the opportunity to feel a spiritual connection to a new area of the world, to each other and with yourselves.

    Will you be encountering the Papal visit at all? I imagine the religious climate in Ireland is quite interesting at the moment given his visit.

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